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Most circuits run on DC. Most outlets give AC. Most beginner accidents involve overconfidence with mains voltage. Knowing the safety hierarchy — battery > USB > wall-wart > bench supply > mains — and which to use when is essential. A 12V drill battery can weld metal. A 5V USB can't kill you but can fry a $40 chip.
Power source hierarchy for hobby work.
SAFE FOR HOBBY (DC, low voltage, low current):
1. COIN CELL (CR2032): 3V, ~50mAh.
Use: tiny sensors, watches, prototype wearables.
Risk: low. Worst case: a chip burns.
2. AA/AAA: 1.5V each (alkaline) or 1.2V (NiMH).
Use: basic LED, simple microcontroller projects.
Risk: low.
3. 9V battery: 9V, ~500mAh.
Use: legacy radios, simple projects needing more headroom.
Risk: low but capable of small sparks if shorted.
4. Li-Po pouch cells: 3.7V nominal, variable mAh.
Use: wearables, drones, anything that wants tight form factor.
Risk: MEDIUM. Punctured cells can vent flame. Charge with a
proper Li-Po charger, never bare leads.
5. USB power (Type-A or Type-C): 5V nominal.
Use: anything that needs steady 5V at <500mA (Type-A) or up to
3A (Type-C).
Risk: low. Computers have over-current shutdown on USB ports.
6. BENCH POWER SUPPLY: adjustable 0-30V, 0-5A.
Use: bench experimentation. Current limit protects.
Risk: low at low voltages. Set current limit BEFORE turning on.
GETTING DANGEROUS (start being careful):
7. 12V car/UPS lead-acid: short-circuit current ~hundreds of amps.
Can weld a wire. Can burn skin.
Use: hobby motor projects, intermittently.
Risk: HIGH if shorted.
8. 24V industrial: similar to 12V but more headroom.
ACTUALLY DANGEROUS (don't until trained):
9. MAINS AC (110V or 230V):
LETHAL with brief contact.
Capable of arc-flash that destroys eyesight.
Don't work on this until you know what you're doing.
10. HV/RF: thousands of volts. Definitely don't.
THE BENCH PROTOCOL:
Before connecting power:
- Visually inspect the circuit.
- Set bench supply voltage to the EXPECTED supply (5V if 5V circuit).
- Set CURRENT LIMIT to slightly above expected current (e.g., 200mA
for a circuit that should draw 100mA).
- Turn on. Observe.
If current goes immediately to limit:
- SHORT CIRCUIT. Turn off. Investigate.
If voltage drops:
- UNDERPOWERED. Need higher current or different supply.
If circuit smokes:
- TURN OFF IMMEDIATELY. Don't add more.
PROTECTING THE CIRCUIT:
- In-line fuse on the supply: 0.5A polyfuse + appropriate rating.
- Decoupling caps on every IC's power pins (covered later).
- Reverse-polarity protection: schottky diode in series, or P-channel
FET for low-drop.
- TVS diodes on input lines that may see ESD.
WALL-WARTS (WALL-MOUNT POWER SUPPLIES):
Look at the label:
- Input: 100-240V AC, 50/60Hz.
- Output: 5V DC, 2A (for example).
The brick converts mains to safe DC.
The DC output is what you wire to your circuit — handle that.
Never open the brick. Never modify mains-side wiring.
Beware:
- Cheap unregulated wall-warts. Their voltage drops under load.
- "5V" might be 4.5V at 1A. Use a regulated supply.
THIS LESSON'S FOCUS:
Pick a power source that matches your project. Set current limit
before connecting. If the circuit smokes, turn off — don't add more
voltage hoping it'll resolve.